October 21 Ponta Delgada, São Miguel, Açores, Portugal
Anthem was only a few hours away from Ponta Delgada, Azores, Portugal as the sun rose just after 7:30 a.m.
The geographical location was 37°37.32’ N and 25°12.75.’ W, steering course 282°, temperature 17° C, cloudy and windy about 25 km/hr. We had sailed 1,635 nautical miles (3,028 km) from Southampton. There was a detectible ripple to the ocean, but no big waves. A lot of people will be relieved of their seasickness and happy to go ashore.
Day 5 of Claire’s quarantine. The medic came just after 8 a.m. to give Claire the COVID rapid test. Larry has had five negative tests in a row and is considered COVID free. At 9 a.m. the Medical Center phoned to say Claire was negative and Royal Caribbean’s policy had changed to if person was negative on Day 5 of Quarantine, they were released, no need to wait for two consecutive negative tests. We climbed up to Deck 15 to the walking track to walk a few laps in the sun. The ship was in the process of docking. By 10 a.m. people could leave the ship. Our Deck 10 port side balcony was facing Ponta Delgada. There was a tall ship moored on the other side of our ship. There was also a Portuguese navy ship in port.
Portugal’s Azores (in Portuguese Açores) is an archipelago of 9 volcanic islands. Ponta Delgada is the main city on the largest island, São Miguel. It has been the region's capital since 1976 when Portugal's constitution was revised. Ponta Delgada began as a simple fishing village whose fishermen were once attracted by its safe coves.
In 1522, an earthquake destroyed the island’s former capital, Vila Franca do Campo. King João III gave Ponta Delgada its city status in 1546. In the 1600s and 1700s convents, churches and manor houses were built as the port grew in significance. It was a supply stop for ships en route from the Mediterranean, Portugal and Africa to the Americas and the West Indies. This area by the cruise terminal is the historic centre today mixed with modern buildings.
From the historic waterfront there is now a broad thoroughfare lined with hotels, a wide promenade for pedestrians and cyclists. The cruise terminal area has cleverly incorporated a shopping mall and parking garage on a lower level with restaurants and sidewalk cafés lining the boardwalk. You cannot see any of it from the road above. The airport is nearby and occasionally a small plane flies toward it.
From our balcony and the walking track on Deck 15, we had a good view of the city. We only walked 2.5 kilometres. To the far left of the port area was the walls of the old Fort São Brás which is now a military museum. To the far right was the distant tower of Mãe de Deus Chapel on a small hill. In front of the cruise terminal vehicle entrance was São Pedro Church and its floral sign garden. Further up the hill you can see the lush green farm fields and undulating hills. Most of the houses are white washed with reddish orange tile roofs.
We had cancelled Claire’s City Tour excursion several days ago based on the information given us six days ago that Day 6 was the earliest exit from Claire’s quarantine. The tour was sold out even before Claire’s ticket was cancelled. Larry went on the three and a half hour coach and walking tour. The highlights were listed as Igreja de São Sebastião (Saint Sebastian’s Church); Scenic walk through main shopping area; Nossa Senhors de Esperanca chapel and convent; Scenic walk to Jardim Jose do Cantos and Jardim António Borges (António Borges Botanical Gardens). The first part of the tour was by coach to see the two gardens then a drive to St. Joseph’s Parish Church for the walking tour. The guide was Daniella for the tour. The Azores has a total population of about 250,000 on the 9 islands and 130,000 of them live on São Miguel of which 75,000 live in Ponta Delgada, the capital. When the Portuguese discovered the island in the 15th century it was deserted. Throughout its history it has been Portuguese except for a very brief period when it was under Spanish rule. In the past, the economy was driven by cereal grains, oranges and pineapples. Little wonder that São Miguel is known as the Green Island. The Açores (like Madeira) are an autonomous region of Portugal with their own President and government but subject to Portugal’s rules.
Claire wandered for just over two hours. She started walking along the main waterfront promenade bordering Avenida Infante D. Henrique street to Fortaleza de São Brás passing the square with the former waterfront city gates. The gates had been moved about 50 meters inland to their present position. Saint Sebastian’s Church built from 1531 to 1547 is close by. The promenade ended at Fort São Brás which Larry visited toward the end of his walking tour. He also visited St. Joseph Parish Church and Hope Convent. Facing the Praça 5 de Outubro is a small Jardim Francisco Borges da Silva with a pond. Across the boulevard from the fortress in Praça 5 de Outubro, which boasts St. Joseph Parish Church and Convento da Esperança (Hope Convent), which contains a magnificent choir decorated with the beautiful Portuguese azulejos (blue & white tiles) dating from the 18th Century. St. Joseph Parish Church was built quickly between 1709 and 1714. It was known as the church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception until 1838. In 1953 the church was classified as a monument of public interest. Claire needed to find a cute souvenir for a friend’s five year old daughter. The family ancestry is from the Açores. Claire found a cute small backpack. Claire found it at a little store, Maviripa, along Rua Dr. Gil Montalverne. It was one of the narrow Portuguese black and white cobblestone streets that are part of the historic centre, which have many outdoor cafés. As Claire got her bearings, she found a fascinating house which featured the restaurant, Cé Lavi, Music & Food experience. Turning east a few streets and she found the modern Palácio da Justiça, the law courts building. Not far away was the Torre Sineira Bell Tower on the Town Hall quite close to the city gate. The bell tower was built in 1724. It is almost 30 meters high. There are 106 stairs to the top. It is part of the three storey Town Hall. The old city gates are across the street in Praça de Goncalo Velho, an explorer. They used to be 30 meters closer to the waterfront where they were the access to the town. Within throwing distance is Igreja de São Sebastião (St. Sebastian parish church) built between 1531 and 1547, on the site of a small Hermitage dedicated to São Sebastião. The interior wood is local cedarwood and other rare woods such as ebony. As Claire walked along Rua do Dr. Guilherme Pocas, she spotted a typical green grocer. A few more streets east was the Library & Archives building where the Museu Carlos Machadon Scared Art Center is located in a former Jesuits church. A few more streets along Rua do Dr. Guilherme Pocas was the former convent where other parts of the Museu Carlos Machadon collection are exhibited. The building is white stucco with green shutters. She passed the Universidade dos Açores and the beautiful entrance garden and pond. Then she turned south toward the water to find Mãe de Deus Chappel secluded on the twisting Ladeira da Mãe Deus. There were views to the north of the farm fields and hills and to the south you could see the harbour and the Anthem at the dock. It was time to return to the ship and find her way down hill to the final destination of the Igreja de São Pedro. The church was started in the 15th century but not finished until the 17th century. On the south side facing the water is a flower bed configured as São Pedro, which we can see from our balcony. Claire’s meandering through the cobble stone streets and small squares was only 5.34 kilometres.
The walking part of Larry’s tour covered many of the same places that Claire visited. The coach part visited the Jose do Cantos garden and António Borges garden. Both were botanical gardens on former orange plantations with species from around the world. António Borges Medeiros was an avid amateur botanist in the 19th Century, interested in introducing new species to the island.
When Claire returned, she had enough time before the Windjammer buffet closed to get a salad. There was a ship’s announcement that people could return to the starboard side of the ship as the bunkering had concluded. The captain was making sure that there was enough fuel to get to Halifax after making the big diversion around the storm. Then she sat on the balcony composing the blog, with a nice view of the city and hills. When Larry returned we compared stories and photos. Then got ready to go to the pre-recorded ballroom dance music hour in the Music Hall. When we arrived the session was cancelled so that a band could practice for their evening show. We and another couple were the only ones interested in the ballroom dancing. We had a drink in the Brass and Bock Pub before joining Jenny and Melvin for dinner in the Chic Dining Room on Deck 3. Anthem left Ponta Delgada on time at 5:30 p.m. By the time dessert was served the waves were three meters high and the wind was also a factor. The seasick sufferers will have another rough night. There are discreet navy blue “barf bags” on the stair rails at each floor on all of the staircases. We don’t know about the elevators.
We had a nice dinner. Our waiter Antonio and his assistant, Rojul took good care of us. The maître d’ reminded us that our watches should be put back an hour tonight as we cruise west. The Headliner Show tonight was Las Vegas Tenors who sang tunes for everyone (over 40).
At 10 p.m. Anthem had cruised 1736 nautical miles.
Larry’s total steps 18,332 Claire’s total steps 15,194
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